Hardwood and composite decks, including elevated and lakeside decks, built as part of an outdoor living space.
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A good deck starts below the boards. We set out concrete pier footings or adjustable pedestals, then build a level subframe from H4 treated pine or galvanised steel. Joist protection tape goes on before the boards to keep water out of the timber. On top, we lay spotted gum, blackbutt, or merbau hardwood, or a capped composite board if you would rather not oil every year. Most of our decks sit within larger projects, tying the house to a pool, a lawn terrace, or a pergola or outdoor structure for shade.
Conditions around the lake are tough on decking. Humid summers and moist air coming off the water keep timber damp for longer, so we leave ventilation gaps under every deck and space the boards so they can swell and shrink without cupping. Homes closer to the coast get salt in the air, which is why we use 316 stainless screws and hidden clips there instead of standard galvanised fixings. Summer storms also dump heavy rain on sandy and clay soils. Good footings and drainage under the deck stop it from moving or holding water against the frame.
Picture a waterfront home where the yard falls steeply toward the lake. A raised hardwood deck gives you a flat place to sit and look over the water, and the space underneath can be screened off for storage. Or think of a new pool where you want warm timber along one edge instead of more stone. We often build decks next to pool landscaping, retaining walls, and paving, so every level, step, and edge lines up the way it was designed.
Every stage, from survey and levels to the final coat of oil
We measure the site, take levels off the house floor, and check the ground for slope, soil type, and drainage paths. From there we draw up the deck layout, board direction, steps, and edge details. We also check whether the deck needs council approval or meets exempt development rules.
We dig and pour concrete pier footings, or set adjustable pedestals on solid bases where the ground suits. Bearers and joists go in square and level, with joist tape on every top edge. This frame is what keeps your deck flat and solid over the years.
Boards are laid with even spacing so water drains and the timber can move with the weather. We use hidden clips or face-fixed stainless screws, depending on the board and the look you want. Ends are trimmed straight and edges finished with fascia boards for a clean line.
We build the steps, seating, and any balustrade, then sand the hardwood smooth. Timber decks get a penetrating decking oil to slow down greying and moisture damage. Before we hand over, we walk you through how to look after your new deck.
Flat, solid outdoor living space designed for the way you use your backyard
A raised or multi-level deck turns a steep or awkward yard into flat, usable living space. You get room for a dining table, lounge, or barbecue where there was only a slope before. On lakefront sites, it also puts you up where the views are best.
Proper footings, ventilation, and board spacing mean your deck handles damp summers without cupping, sagging, or rotting at the joists. You can walk on it barefoot without loose boards or popped screws. Less movement also means less repair work over time.
Because we build the deck alongside paving, walls, pool surrounds, and pergolas, everything meets at the right height. You avoid trip edges, mismatched levels, and awkward gaps between different trades' work. The whole backyard feels planned, because it was.
We pick fixings, timber, and spacing to suit where your home sits. That means stainless fixings near the coast, ventilated subframes for damp sites, and boards that cope with summer heat. These details decide how long a deck lasts.
We also build retaining walls, paving, pool surrounds, and outdoor kitchens, so your deck is designed with everything around it. One team handles the levels, drainage, and finishes across the full project. You deal with one point of contact from start to finish.
Sloping blocks and lakefront properties need careful footing design and access planning. We regularly work on raised and multi-level decks where the ground is uneven or soft. We plan the structure around the site instead of forcing a standard design onto it.
Joist tape, square framing, proper footings, and clean drainage are all done to a high standard even though you will never see them. This hidden work is what stops a deck from bouncing, sagging, or rotting early. We are happy to show you the frame before the boards go on.
Common questions answered
Hardwood like spotted gum or blackbutt looks and feels natural, but it needs regular oiling to hold its colour in humid, sunny conditions. Capped composite boards need far less upkeep and resist staining, which suits busy pool areas and holiday homes. We talk through how you use the space and how much care you want to give it before recommending one.
The main factors are the deck size, its height off the ground, the board material, and how hard the site is to build on. Steep blocks, rocky or soft soil, steps, balustrades, and built-in seating all add to the work. We give you a detailed quote after we have surveyed the site and agreed on the design.
Some decks fall under NSW exempt development rules, while others need approval. It depends on things like height, size, distance from boundaries, and whether the land is bushfire prone or near the foreshore. We check this early in the design stage so there are no surprises later.
It depends on how much sun, rain, and foot traffic the deck gets. A deck in full sun next to a pool will dry out and grey faster than one under a pergola. A good sign is when water stops beading on the surface and the timber starts to look pale, which is the time to clean and re-oil.
Sometimes, yes. We inspect the bearers, joists, and footings first, checking for rot, termite damage, and movement. If the frame is sound we can re-board it, and if it is not, we will explain what needs replacing and why.
We provide Decking throughout Lake Macquarie, NSW and surrounding suburbs.
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